DIESEL BLOG
Hey I just recently did the e4od to zf5 swap and ever since then every time I start the truck I have a really choppy idle from about 400-800 rpms I can rev it up for a couple of secs and it goes away and won't do it again until I shut it off and restart it? All new glow plugs, GPR, valve cover gaskets and uvch oil change and newer fuel filter please help
i blew a high pressure oil line, i have changed it and couldnt get it to start. i changed the hpop and have been through numerous starters and one battery! i have over 1000 psi to the ipr and 500 psi and 17% on koeo at the icp, exactly what it is supposed to be. i have fuel to the seperator. it will not start. i have not done an injector sequence test yet. my rpm gauge does not register but it is turning over rapidly. IT will not even smoke there is no fuel to the cyliders. why would there be a problem with fuel if it blew an oil line???? there has to be a way to reset the system but nothing is working. HELP!!!!!!
I have a 2002 7.3 liter powerstroke that a friend ran out of diesel and ever since then(about a week) it ran poorly, rough idle, no power. I changed the fuel filter and now it starts and will run for a few seconds but dies after chugging black smoke out the pipe. I was told by someone on another forum that there are 2 fuel filters? One under the truck, I cannot find it but i can find something that warns of high pressure fuel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Gentlemen and bloggers, my 1st time on, I have a 99 7.3 F350. the engine was replaced 1000 miles ago. it was not broken in right. from what they tell me, their break in proceedure lasted about 60 miles, traveling 90% of the time on the highway. after that the truck was started everyday, moved about 1 to 2 blocks and idled anywhere from 1 to 4 hours before being turned off. this lasted 3 to 4 months before moving on to another job and doing the same thing again. there is a steady stream of smoke out the breather ( i disconnected it and put a hose going down to the ground). if i put my thumb over the hose i can watch the oil pan expand. as for the tail pipe, constantly blows blue smoke. my question is; is there something out there i can use to help get the rings to seat or do i have to take it to a shop for a rering job. a friend suggested to use a powdered sink cleaner. Help
This 94 hasn't been run in two yrs. Had a buddy run the inj. system elec. test and it all checked out. The oil level is full, but not making preasure. Batterys full and being charged while testing. I even filled the inj. oil tank. got nay ideas?
I am new to diesels. I drove 150 miles from SF to the mountains, as I was parking I noticed like it was not getting gas, shut off and tried starting, cranks but won't start. Next days charged batteries, changed fuel filter, yes there is fuel - fuel sprays when cap is loosened. I changed CPS ... Engine oil level is good but thick/black. I hear the pump working, glow plug clicking ... cranks but wil not start ... like no gas ... also there are absolutely no codes! Help
I have a 2002 F350 7.3 that someone borrowed from mr and added Bio-Diesel, and now it will not run. I have cleand out the complete fuel system from the tank to the injectors replaced filters and now have clean fuel to the engine.
The engine cranks freely but no fire.
Anyone have an y ideas.
Thank you
Darryl
Well if you have had the pleasure of changing a 6.0 Diesel fuel filter, you know that on the F series it can be a bit messy. A quick tip to make life easier is to remove the fuel drain plug. This is useful in draining the housing as well a removing any water or debris from the primary fuel filter assembly along the frame. There is a hex plug located in the middle of the assembly towards the bottom. It will be partially blocked if you own a 4x4, but an allen wrench will remove the plug. Don't loose the sealing washer. Pull the plug, catch the fuel and any debris that comes with it. Less mess and your shirt won't smell like diesel fuel the rest of the day.
Before jumping to conclusions about your Powerstroke and its overheating problem start with the basics. Is your coolant full? Is there a leak? What condition is the coolant in? These are the first steps. Does your thermostate open? Is the belt in good shape? Remove the belt and turn the water pump pulley, is it smooth?
Does the fan clutch lock up when it gets hot. The engine will sound different when locked and under a load. It can also be checked by opening the hood and watching the fan as the truck is shut off. Does the fan stop with the engine?
But the most overlooked overheating problem on a 7.3 Powerstroke is the radiator. I know what your thinking, I can only see just in front of the fan and it looks good. What you need to do is look down the front of the radiator. This in most cases can be done be removing the trim piece under the hood on F series models or be removing the air filter duct work on the E series. Use a flash light and take a look. You will most likely see the front full of debris. It will take more than compressed air to get all that junk out. Removal of the radiator is needed and a good power washing to get all that dirt out of the fins. You will be shocked when you see the dirt come out of it.
Always start with the basic checks on a cooling system before jumping to a worst case scenario.
Help my 7.3 Power Stroke cranks but will not start. So lets put down that can of starting fluid and figure out why it won't start instead of causing more damage. The first step in a 7.3 no start is to simply check the oil level. Yes the oil level. Your engine could be low by just 3-4 quarts causing a hard start. Unlike other diesel engines the Powerstroke has two oil pumps. One to lubricate the engine components and the other to operate the fuel injectors.
Next lets sit in the driver's seat. Turn the key on, does the "Wait to start light" come on? If the light does not light up check the 30 amp fuse under the steering wheel. This fuse will operate the fuel bowl heater and a power circut for the powertain control module. A common 7.3 PSD problem is the fuel bowl heater shorting out under the fuel filter, which in turn blows the fuse.
Try and crank the engine. If you have a tach guage does it move? If the computer does not see a tach signal it will not turn on the fuel. The truck must also crank fast enough. If it is not cranking fast enough it won't generate a signal for the camshaft position sensor.
Next step is checking glow plugs. Generation one and two powerstrokes will vary in their glow plug control, but I will keep this simple. On most PSD on the passenger side on the engine on top there will be a relay. This relay has four terminals. (note sometimes there are two relays next to eachother one is for glow plugs and one is for the intake heater. Also on some models the glow plug relay will look like a mini control module. do not go poking around on these wires it requires a different set of tests.) Most PSD's have the 4 post relay. One wire will have B+ all the time, across from it on the other big post this is the feed to the glow plugs. The Two other terminals smaller in size, One is key on power from the ignition switch and the other is a ground controlled by the Powertain Control Module. Verify That the relay is working. Even if it makes a click noise, verify the relay has really switched power. Now the glow plugs will need to pull about 180-190 amps when cold. This is total for all eight glow plugs. Yes that is alot of amps so be sure your battery and charging system is up to par. When your truck losses one glow plug it will become harder and harder to start. It is only a matter of time till all the glow plugs fail. Can't see the glow plugs. That's because they are located under the valve covers. AAAhhh do not use starting fluid on a hard start. If you have only 3 glow plugs working and you use starting fluid on it you are going to cause engine damage very quickly.
These are just a few 7.3 Power Stroke problems issues to keep in mind on a crank no start.